TIFFANY & Co. 18k GOLD CUMMINGS RIBBON LINK BRACELET

Cummings was known mainly for working in 18-karat gold as well as platinum and sterling silver, highlighted with exquisate gems. But she often mixed these materials with unconventional counterpoints such as wood. She experimented with classic jewelry-making techniques, such as inlaying precious metals into iron, a process known as damascene, and broke the rules of high-end jewelry early in her career by using lots of color.

The inspiration for Cummings' work is rooted in nature. She incorporates forms such as ginkgo leaves, spiderwebs, vines, shells, feathers, sea foam, dragonflies, and orchids into her jewelry. Cummings is known for her innovation, trompe d'œil effects, intricate designs, attention to the surface of the metal, and her concern with the smallest of details. Her work has been praised by critics as well as loved by customers.

In 1984 Cummings left Tiffany to form her own business with her husband, Bruce Cummings, a former Tiffany gemologist whom she had married in 1970. One of the reasons Cummings decided to leave Tiffany was to have more control over her work. She wanted to expand into other categories such as tabletop accessories, leather goods, and flatware, and she hoped to expand her price range so her pieces would be more affordable. She opened her first boutique across the street from Tiffany at the upscale Bergdorf Goodman department store. The 500-square-foot space, a first for a jewelry designer at the Fifth Avenue retailer, was located in the middle of the first floor. Soon Cummings had other boutiques in stores such as Bloomingdale's and Macy's San Francisco.