Speed boat jet drive unit outdrive not PP, Hamilton

This is a marine jet drive unit built by UA Engineering, Sheffield , England. It's out of a 14 foot jet boat.
It's the rare 2 stage jet (2 impellers inside). I understand that this means it can handle more power than the single stage UA jets which are limited to 50 hp. 2 stage jets provide better accelleration and top speed than single stage jets, but are less commonly used especially on jet ski and jet boat installations who's single stage jets are not as efficient but much cheaper to make as the impellers are usually made of brass and quite expensive.  I've read on the web somewhere that this unit is optimised to take 75 bhp, but can no longer find  the website where I saw the information. It's in good usable condition with a straight, true shaft, freely moving bearings with no play and tight clearances between the impeller tips and (replaceable) plastic wear rings. It's a complete unit with both impellers, scoop grate/ ride plate, reverse bucket, steering gate and all moulding and bearings.
It comes complete with a toothed belt with pump shaft pulley (28teeth), engine output pulley (36teeth) and tensioner all mounted on a strong side braced half inch thick aluminium plate. This means it can be geared 1 : 1.28 to up the crankshaft revs from a small car engine so it doesn't have to run at full throttle for long periods. When these drive units are used with a motorcycle or rotax engine they run direct to the pump shaft without the step up gearing as the revs are higher from such engines.
It is in good working condition, recently stripped down to bare metal, primed and repainted and ready to install in a hull. The impellers, which are the most expensive parts are in good condition, with only usual wear and tear very minor scuffs to the leading edges. The trailing edges of the stator blades have seen some debris go through them at some stage but they are all there and have been straightened so performance should not be affected. Stator blades are cheap and easy to fix by any propeller repairer anyway as they are aluminium. The trailing edges of the impellers (which are the most important bits of any of the blades) are in excellent condition. All mating surfaces are fair and smooth and will create a perfect seal on reassembly.
You can see images of an installation of a similar UA jet unit (though only a single stage) with a direct drive and a Rotax 650 engine in an Almarine Meteor at  http://www.cmba-uk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=750&p=2456&hilit=almarine#p2456

I was going to fit a marinised 600cc motorcycle engine to this drive and this would be the perfect drive for such a project but I have moved onto a different project now. It's therefore being sold ready to fit into a hull of your choice either with direct drive from a motorbike engine or with the step up gearing and a car engine. The intake gullet is grp and moulded into the hull section. This means that you have a number of options open to you for installation.

1. Cut the piece of hull away to about an inch of flange around the jet drive and simply bolt it into your hull, just like you would fit an all metal jet drive. Best to mould a recess to suit around the hole you cut in your hull so that the unit ends up flush.
2. Utilise a large amount of the section of hull with engine bed and mounts. It's come out of a production hull so all is strong and solid and things like the height and angle of jet nozzle to the shoe of the boat are all correct for a small planing jetboat. This is what I was going to do, but obviously it requires some minor skill at fibreglassing. Because I wasn't sure exactly how much area of original hull to keep with the jetdrive, you will see I have kept a large section (better keep too much than too little!). This leaves a lot of options for fitting to your hull, and also means there is the correct lead up from the vee of the hull to the jet drive there for reference. This is an important consideration when fitting a jetdrive to a vee hull as it has to flatten out before the jet drive to allow uninterupted flow into the jet and this slope cannot be too steep or the boat will go slowly, so you've got the hull section there for reference. The other benefit of this method is the engine mountings being there, which is good as they are moulded in steel and already proven to be strong enough to take engine loads so one less thing to worry about. The rubber engine beds and a steel mounting frame for a motorcycle engine can be included if the buyer wants, though they arent in the photos.
3. Take a mould off the intake gullet I have supplied and adapt a custom moulding for your hull.

The jet drive is currently 'dry fitted' together with loose bolts to give bidders an idea of its constructed appearance in the photos. Bolts are loose and sealent has not yet been applied so that the buyer can inspect all internal components before purchase if they wish. (I know I would want to) If the winning bidder would prefer, I can build up the unit in a 'ready to go state' with sealant and bolts torqued up. It takes about an hour to put it all together so you would need to give me notice of this before collection. Note that a jet drive will not work properly, or even at all if built without sealent as it will suck in air, leak water out of the wrong places etc. so if you take it as is, remember to build it up carefully with sealant and no leaks!

The unit also comes with stainless steel clips which hold the two control cables in place where they come through the transom, though control cables are not included.

Collection only as too bulky to post. No overseas bidders without prior explanation. Fits in tha back of an estate car.
If you are buying this to upgrade from a single stage UA jet or for other reasons don't need the gullet/ hull section and engine mounting frame, we can talk about postage at your cost (prob. about £20 UK mainland at a guess), as the really heavy bulky bit is the big chunk of hull.

NO RESERVE