You are Buying a Brand New, All Valve, 7 Watt, Boutique Electric Guitar Combo Amplifier that has Been -
!!! 'RAT' HOT-RODDED !!!
www.ratvalveamps.com
Main Hot Rod Features: 'Tone' + 'Drive' Controls - 2 x 'Speaker Outputs' with 'Impedance Select'.
...Plus...
'''Power Scaling'''
Sets the Amp Output Power from 7 Watts to .1 Watt.
...Plus...
'''Power Scaling 'PS1' and 'PS2' Settings'''
Totally Changes the 'Dynamics' of the Amp.
...Plus...
'''Dual Output Valves'''
1 x 'EL84' -or- 1 x NOS '6N6C' Switchable from the Front Panel.
...Plus...
'''TRI Rectifiers'''
Switch between 'Silicon' Diodes -or- Dual Mode (V1+V2) Tungsram NOS 'EZ80' Valve Rectifier.
...Plus...
'''3 Position Preamp Valve 'Bias' + 'Gain' Switches'''
Sets the 'Voice' and 'Gain' of the Amp.
...Plus...
'''NEW 'Bright' Switch'''
Adds a touch of Fender 'Sparkle' to the Sound.
...Plus...
'''Speaker Output Dummy Load'''
The 'Line Out' -and/or- 'Headphone' Sockets can be used With -or- Without Speakers Connected. Auto-Switching.
...Plus...
'''Line Out Socket'''
Speaker Emulated - (Open Back Cab).
...Plus...
'''Master Volume Control'''
Allows Preamp Overdrive -or- Power Amp Overdrive -or- Both.
...Plus...
'''Headphone Socket'''
Speaker Emulated using standard Stereo Headphones.
...Plus...
'''Standby Switch'''
...Plus...
'''Celestion 'Super 8' Speaker'''
...Plus...
'''100% Valve'''
This Amp is 'ALL Valve' Circuitry with NO Transistors or Semiconductors in the Signal Path.
............................
This Amp started it's life as a Harley Benton GA5 (Epiphone Valve Junior Clone, Made in the Same factory). It Looks Great but Suffers from a Stack of Faults. Dull Tone, Low Volume, Buzz and Hiss, Incorrect Bias Settings, Excessive HT Supply Voltage and the 'EQ' Control is a Joke.
I Correct all of the Faults and Add some Nice Extras. With a Lot of work the Amp is Transformed and it Sounds Fantastic.
'Power Scaling' has been added as this is 'Essential' for a Home/Bedroom/Practice Guitar Amplifier.
- 'Valve Amplifiers' -
Same old Story - To get that Brilliant 'Valve Sound', You have to CRANK it, then it's way too loud for Home use. 'Power Scaling' is the Answer - - -
- 'Power Scaling' -
The Latest Valve Technology.
http://www.londonpower.com/pscaling.htm
This is What 'Power Scaling' will do for you...
'Power Scaling' lets you get a true 'Cranked Amp Sound' at VERY Low Volume Levels. When I first Experienced 'Power Scaling', I could not believe how good it was - Full Harmonics - Sustain a Mile Long - the Whole works, but at a Volume level you can 'Talk' over - it's Unreal. Simple to use, Just like a Normal Volume Control, but as you 'Dial Down the Power' - The Volume Drops but the Tone is Maintained. 'Power Scaling' Allows the Output Power of the Amplifier to be Varied from 100% down to Less than 1% of the Full Rating - Fully Maintaining the Warm Tone and Natural Harmonics of the Output Valves. Sustain is Increased slightly when the 'Power Scaling' is active and 'Pinch' Harmonics seem to leap from the Fretboard on just about any Guitar. Some of the 'Side' Benefits of 'Power Scaling' are - Waste Heat from the Output Stage is Dramatically reduced as the Power is Dialled down, Greatly Extending Valve Life - Because of the Extra Filtering used in the Circuit, Background 'Hiss' is Gone - Power Consumption is also Reduced, this will extend the life of all the Components in the Amplifier.
- 'Power Scaling 'PS1' and 'PS2' Settings' -
This Function allows you to Switch the 'Power Scaling' Circuits Between 'PS1' (Standard) Operation -and- 'PS2' (Brown Out) Operation.
1. - 'PS1'....This is the Standard Method of 'Power Scaling' in which only the Valve Output Circuits are Scaled. The Preamp Circuits are 'Held' at Normal Supply Voltage.
2. - 'PS2'.... This Setting Totally Changes the Dynamics of the Amplifier as Both the Preamp and Power Amp Circuits are Scaled. The Resulting Effect is Known as 'Brown Out'. The most Well known user of 'Brown Out' was 'EVH'. He used a 'Variac' to Achieve the 'Brown' Sound, but the End result is the Same as 'PS2', without the Risk of any Damage to the Valves.
- 'DUAL Valve Switch' -
It's Like Having two Completely Different Amplifiers, at the Flip of a Switch.
This Amp uses an 'EL84' -or- '6N6C' - They Sound TOTALLY Different and Using the Front Panel Switch you can Flip Between the two Valves to Hear the Difference. The 'EL84' is MUCH more 'Crunchy' and goes 'Harmonic' well Before the '6N6'. The '6N6' is 'Cleaner', 'Sharper', 'Brighter' and has More Clean Headroom. Both Valves are Independent 'Cathode Bias' and there is no need to Re-Bias the Amp if you want to try Different Make Valves. The 6N6C 'Octal' Valve can be Changed to a - 6L6 - 6V6 - 5881 or KT66.
- 'TRI' Rectifier Switch' -
There is a Switch on the Rear Panel of the Amp which Allows the Selection of 3 Different Rectifiers.
1. - Standard 'Silicon' Diodes.
2. - EZ80 'Valve' - Running at Half Power.
3. - EZ80 'Valve' - Running at Full Power.
All Amplifiers use a Rectifier to convert the Raw AC Voltage from the Mains Transformer into DC Voltage. The Amp Circuits Need DC Voltage to work. If, for example, you Hit a Power Chord on your Guitar, the Amplifier Circuitry Suddenly Demands a Large Dose of Power from the Mains Transformer. Silicon Diodes are Extremely Efficient and can convert the Raw AC into DC almost instantaneously, to Feed the Amplifiers Needs. Valve Rectifiers are a Different Story. Generally Speaking, they can't Cope with Sudden High Demands of Energy and they 'Starve' the Amp of Power until they can catch up with the Demand - This is Called 'SAG' - and it Sounds GREAT!
The typical sound Produced by an Amp using 'Silicon' Diodes would be -
- Attack - Sustain - Release - Decay -
Using the 'V1 Valve' Rectifier, the Sound would be Closer to -
- Attack - Swell - Extended Sustain - Release - Decay -
To your Ears -
In 'Silicon Mode' the Initial Note Attack is Sharp and Crisp - Like a Modern Amp.
In 'V1 -or- V2 Valve Mode' the Initial Attack is Almost Soft and Laid Back with Longer Sustain - Like a Vintage Amp.
It is OK to Switch Between Rectifiers While the Amp is Running.
- 'Speaker Output Dummy Load' -
A Valve Amp MUST have at least one Speaker connected to the Output or it will Rapidly Destroy the Output Transformer -or- Power Valve -or- Both. With a 'Dummy Load' the 'Line Out' -and/or- 'Headphone' Sockets can be used with -or- without Speakers Connected. The 'Dummy Load' is Auto-Switching.
- 'Celestion Super 8 Speaker' -
A Great Little Speaker - The Sound Produced by this Amp is Wicked - Crank the Amp and it is LOUD !! - 'Dial In' the 'Power Scaling' and you can reduce the Volume to a Whisper but you 'KNOW' you are plugged into a 'Cooking' Valve Amplifier.
At Bedroom Volume you can obtain the Full, Sweet Valve Harmonic Overdrive Sound that you have probably always been looking for.
- 'This Amplifier is' -
- Pure Class 'A' - Single Ended - Cathode Bias -
'Class 'A' Amplifiers' - The Output Valve Runs at Almost Constant Power all of the Time, Resulting in More Responsiveness. At Lower Volume you will get Punchy, Clear Tone that makes the Strings of your Guitar 'Sing'. The Response is Quick and Lively. Turn it up, and you get Classic Crunch and Marvelous, Warm Harmonics - Simply NOT Obtainable on any Transistor Amp that I have ever Heard.
'Single Ended Amplifiers' - Sound 'Full', Providing Rich, Luscious Overall Tonal Colouration with enough Clarity to bring out the Subtlety of your Guitar and Playing. They are known for Natural Break-Up when Turned to Higher Volumes, Resulting in a Creamy Distortion that makes Transistor 'Gain' Sound Sterile and Flat.
'Cathode Bias Amplifiers' - Do NOT need to be 'Re-Biased' if the Output Valve is Changed.
The Amp is Also Very Sensitive to the Type/Output of Guitar Pickup used and Cleans-up Nicely when the Guitar Volume is Rolled Back. It is Extremely Articulate and Detailed. You can hear every Touch and Movement of your Fingers on the Strings of the Connected Guitar.
The Internal Preamp and Power Amp Circuits have been Configured so that you can obtain - Preamp Overdrive only -or- Power Amp Overdrive only -or- Both.
With this Amp you can Get that Fantastic Valve Sound without blowing your Head Off.
Due to Inherent 'Class A', 'Single Ended' Design Characteristics, these Amplifiers Have Limited Clean Headroom. There is a Certain Amount of Clean Headroom Available (More when using the '6N6C' Output Valve) but not at Higher Volumes. Also, the Amp is NOT A Gain Monster, if you want 'Metal' or 'Thrash' Tones then you will need to use some kind of Boost or Overdrive Pedal.
- 'Details' -
The Standard Amp has 4 Controls on the Front Panel - 'Input', 'Volume', 'EQ' and 'On/Off Switch'. This 'Hot Rod' Amp is VERY Different - A New Front Panel was Added in order to 'Group' The Controls.....
- 'Voice' -
The 'Bias' Switch allows you to Voice the Amp to your Particular Liking. With 3 Settings to choose from and used in Conjunction with the 'Gain' Switch, you should be able to 'NAIL' the Sound You Want.
A. - Position '1' is 'Clean and Mellow' - This Setting makes use of 'Negative Feedback' (NFB). Standard in Most Valve Amps, NFB keeps the Amp 'Clean' by feeding some of the Speaker Output Signal 'BACK' to a Previous Stage in the Amp Circuitry. This Creates a 'Cancelling' effect and Reduces Distortion and Volume.
B. - Position '2' is 'Sharp and Bright'- No NFB and The Preamp Valve is Biased to match the 'Champ' Amp Sound.
C. - Position '3' is the 'High Gain' Sound - No NFB and The Preamp Valve Bias is 'Hotter' to match Modern Valve Amps - The Harder you drive it the Better it Gets.
In Addition - The 'Gain' Switch Has 3 Settings.
The 'Gain' Switch. - Set to the 'Centre Position' the Amp is Clean. All of the other Controls still work, but do Not Have the 'EDGE'. Switch it 'On' to Position 1 or 2 and the Amp Sparkles and Comes to Life. The Depth, Dynamics and Detail are Superb.
A. - Position '1' is Medium Gain.
B. - Centre Position is 'Normal Gain'.
C. - Position '2' is 'High Gain'.
- 'Input' -
Obvious - But you do not have to plug your Guitar Straight to the Amp. This Amp LOVES Pedals and Really starts to Sing with a Pedal in Front of it.
-Also-
A 'Bright' Switch. Sets the Brightness of the Sound.
- 'Amplifier' -
Because Everybody has a Different Idea of a 'Great' Sound, the 'Amplifier' Group Caters for Individual Requirements. You can 'Dial In' The Preamp 'Drive', Adjust the 'Tone' and Set how Hard the Selected Output Valve is Pushed.
1. - The 'Drive' Control. This sets How Hard the Preamp Valve is Driven.
2. - The 'Tone' Control. It Allows Selective Boost or Cut of the Upper or Lower Frequencies of the Input Signal. The 'Tone' Control does NOT Obstruct the Signal Path, Maintaining the Amps Clarity and Detail.
3. - This is the 'Master' Volume Control. It sets How Hard the Power Amp Valve is Driven.
- 'Output' -
This is where the Magic Happens - 'Power Scale' - Allows the Output Power of the Amplifier to be Varied from 100% down to Less than 1% of the Full Rating, Fully Maintaining the Warm Tone and Natural Harmonics of the Output Valve. It Works GREAT.
- 'Mains' -
The 'Mains' Switch - Main 240vac Supply - Illuminates when turned On.
- 'Valve' -
There are 2 Switches Here -
The Top Switch:
'UP' to Select the 'EL84' Output Valve -or- 'DOWN' to Select the 'OCTAL' Output Valve (6N6C). It's your Choice. They Both Sound Good and they Both Sound Different - WAY Different.
The Lower Switch:
This Switch Has 3 Positions....
1. - The 'Centre' Position is 'Standby'. The Valves need to 'Warm Up' Before they are 'Started'. When the 'Mains' Switch is turned 'On', this Switch should be at 'Standby' for about 1 Minute.
2. - The 'Up' Position of this Switch Activates the Power Scaling 'PS1' (Standard) Circuits.
3. - The 'Down' Position of this Switch Activates the Power Scaling 'PS2' (Brown Out) Circuits.
- 'Rear Panel' -
1. - '2 x Speaker Output Sockets' with Impedance Select Switch - 4, 8 and 16 Ohms. An Auto-Switching 'Dummy Load' operates on Both Speaker Outputs.
2. - 'Line Out' - For Direct Connection (DI) to a Mixing Desk, Recorder or Slave Amp. The 'Line Out' Signal is Speaker Emulated (Open Back Cab) and taken from the Output Transformer, it can be used with -or- without Speakers connected to the Amp.
3. - 'Headphone' Socket - Works with Standard Stereo Headphones - it can be used with -or- without Speakers connected to the Amp.
The Headphone Signal is taken Direct from the Hammond OPT.
4. - 'TRI Rectifier Switch' - Select the 'Silicon' Rectifier -or- The V1 -or- V2 'Valve' (Tungsram NOS EZ80) Rectifier.
.......................................
This is the Hot-Rod List of what you will get for your £329-
1. - A Brand New RAT 'Hot Rod Valve Special' Combo Amp.
2. - 'Power Scaling' - This is the Business, Nothing else can touch it.
3. - Power Scale 'PS1' -and- 'PS2' Settings.
4. - 'Dual Output Valves' - Select the 'EL84' -or- '6N6C' - You can Switch between Valves with the Amp Running.
5. - 'TRI' Rectifiers - V1 -or- V2 'EZ80' Valve -or- 'Silicon' Diodes.
6. - 'Orange Drop' 715P Series 'Tone' Capacitors Fitted.
7. - Auto-Switching 'Dummy Load' on both Speaker Outputs. Protects the Amp from Destruction caused by NO Speakers Connected -Also- Allows the 'Line Out' -and/or- 'Headphone' Sockets to be used with -or- without Speakers connected to the Amp.
8. - New Celestion 'Super 8' Speaker.
9. - 'Headphone' Socket.
10. - New Front and Rear Panel Layout.
11. - New 'Bright' Switch.
12. - Three Position 'Bias' Switch.
13. - Three Position 'Gain' Switch.
14. - Input Impedance Corrected - The Standard Factory Input Network causes over Half of the applied Signal to be 'LOST to EARTH' as soon as it Enters the Amp. Not any more.
15. - 'Drive' Control - Sets the Gain on the Preamp Valve.
16. - 'Tone' Control - For Fine Tuning your Sound.
17. - 'Master' Control - Sets the Gain on the Power Amp Valve.
18. - 'Standby' Switch.
19. - 'Line Out' Socket - Speaker Emulated (Open Back Cab) - The 'Line Out' Signal is taken from the Output Transformer.
20. - 2 x Speaker Outputs and Impedance Select Switch - Protected by an Auto-Switching 'Dummy Load'.
21. - All 3 Valves Biased and Calibrated to work within their Prescribed Design Parameters - More than 70% of the Components on the PCB have to be changed in order to Accomplish this.
22. - 2 x Fuses (HT & LT) Mounted on the PCB - A 'MUST' for Safety Reasons - Without these Fuses even the Slightest Fault could 'Kill' the Mains Transformer.
23. - More/Larger Smoothing Capacitors on the HT and Heater Rails - Eliminates 'Hum' and 'Enhances' Bass Response.
24. - High Quality 'Ceramic', Chassis Mount Valve Bases - Holds the New '6N6C' and 'EZ80' Valves in Place.
25. - New Sino '12AX7B' Preamp Valve - NOS Black Glass '6N6C' (Octal) Power Output Valve & Sovtek 'EL84' Power Output Valve & Tungsram NOS 'EZ80' Rectifier.
26. - I have Changed the 'EL84' Cathode Bias Components - Smoothes out the Distortion (Less Harsh) and makes the Amp 'Sing'.
27. - Anode Dissipation on Both 'Output' Valves is within Defined Limits - if 'NOS' Valves are Fitted, They Will be Safe.
28. - High Quality 'Chicken Head' Control Knobs.
29. - Full 'RAT' User Manual Detailing all of the Amplifier Controls and Modifications.
30. - There are Several 'Other' Modifications that I do to All of my Amps that are Exclusive to me and both Enhance Performance and Help to Keep the Noise Levels Way Down.
The Background 'Hiss' from this Amp is so Low, you may not notice it is Switched on.
This Amp has Been HIGHLY Modified and it Sounds INFINITELY Better than a Standard Unit.
- Speaker -
The Combo is fitted with A New Celestion 'Super 8', 8 inch, 15 Watt Speaker.
- And Finally -
A few words about 'Power Scaling' - The Primary Purpose of 'Power Scaling' is to give you access to the Sound of 'Output Valve Distortion' at Reduced Volume Levels. If it is Clean Headroom you are looking for - Forget about 'Power Scaling', you do not need it. 'Power Scaling' will do Little or Nothing until the Selected Output Valve is being Driven Hard and Producing 'Harmonic Distortion' - Then, it Rules!!
To Modify this Amp a Complete Strip-Down and Re-Build was Required. I use only the Best Components Available and the End Result is a Hand Built All Valve Amp that is the Business.
This is a Boutique Amplifier and you WILL be Delighted with it's Performance - If not, I will give you your Money Back.
I make a Selection of Valve Amplifiers with Different Specifications -
Please check out my other listings to see the Entire Range.
http://search.ebay.co.uk/_W0QQsassZandydokken
If in the unlikely event your Amp stops working - I will put it right for you. I Keep ALL Spares for this Amp in Stock. My work and all Internal Parts (excluding the 4 Valves) will be Guaranteed for 12 Months.
I will send this Amp to Europe but you will need to Contact me for a Shipping Quote -
andyrossaaron@aol.com
-or-
www.ratvalveamps.com
A Brand New RAT 'Hot Rod Valve Special' Amplifier will be sent By 24/48 Hour Carrier, as soon as Payment Reaches my Pocket.
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