You are Buying a Brand New Blackheart 'Little Giant' BH5H - 7 Watt, High Gain, All Valve, Electric Guitar Amplifier Head.
This Amp has Been -
!!! RAT - HOT RODDED !!!
www.ratvalveamps.com
Features: 'Volume', 'Treble', 'Middle' and 'Bass' Controls - 2 x 'Speaker Outputs' with Impedance Select.
...Plus...
'''Power Scaling'''
Sets the Amp Output Power from 14 Watts (Peak) to .1 Watt.
...Plus...
'''Power Scaling 'PS1' and 'PS2' Settings'''
Totally Changes the 'Dynamics' of the Amp.
...Plus...
'''Switchable Extra 'High Gain' Valve'''
Switch Between Normal (1x Preamp Valve) and High Gain (2x Preamp Valves).
...Plus...
'''5881WXT Power Output Valve'''
Edicron (Sovtek). The 5881 is a 'Rugged' Version of the 6L6GC. This Valve can be changed to a - 6V6 - 6L6 or KT66.
...Plus...
'''TRI Rectifiers'''
'Silicon' Diodes -or- Dual Mode (V1+V2) NOS Jan 5Y3WGTA 'Valve' Rectifier - Switchable from the Rear Panel.
...Plus...
'''2 Position Preamp Valve 'Bias' Switch'''
Sets the 'Voice' of the Amp.
...Plus...
'''Speaker Output Dummy Load'''
The 'Line Out' and/or 'Headphone' Sockets can be used With -or- Without Speakers Connected.
...Plus...
'''Line Out Socket'''
Speaker Emulated - (Open Back Cab).
...Plus...
'''Headphone Socket'''
Speaker Emulated - (Open Back Cab) - Signal taken from the OPT.
...Plus...
'''Master Volume Control'''
...Plus...
'''Standby Switch'''
...Plus...
'''100% Valve'''
This Amp is 100% 'ALL Valve' Circuitry with NO Transistors or Semiconductors in the Signal Path.
............................
It's a Great Looking Little Amp, Good Quality Void-Free Birch Plywood Cabinet - Very Well made. The Chassis is 1.5mm Thick Steel, Welded Box Construction with Excellent Quality Transformers. Correctly Rated Electronic Components and a Thru-Plated, Double Sided PCB. The Circuit Design is Text-Book, with Middle-of-the-Road Bias Settings. The HT Voltage is SPOT-ON and on the Surface, The Amp Sounds Good -
There Certainly are a Few 'Issues' that need to be Corrected in order to Remove the High Level of 'Noise' in this Amp, but once that is done, the Amp Performs VERY Well and is wide open to some Great Modifications.
I Correct ALL of the Problems and Add some Nice Extras. With a LOT of work The Amp is Transformed and it -
SOUNDS FANTASTIC
I have tested the Output of the Modified Amp and it is Producing 7 Watts of 'Clean Output' (RMS) - and at it's full High Gain Setting it Hits Just under 14 Watts (Peak).
This is a 'HIGH GAIN' Amp. There are some Clean Sounds Available in 'Normal Mode' but as soon as you Switch in the 2nd Preamp Valve the Amp turns into a 'GAIN MONSTER'.
- Valve Amplifiers -
Same old Story - To get that Brilliant 'Valve Sound', You have to CRANK it, then it's way too loud for Home use. 'Power Scaling' is the Answer - - -
- Power Scaling -
The Latest Valve Technology.
http://www.londonpower.com/pscaling.htm
This is What 'Power Scaling' will do for you...
'Power Scaling' lets you get a true 'Cranked Amp Sound' at VERY Low Volume Levels. When I first Experienced 'Power Scaling', I could not believe how good it was - Full Harmonics - Sustain a Mile Long - the Whole works, but at a Volume level you can 'Talk' over - it's Unreal. Simple to use, Just like a Normal Volume Control, but as you 'Dial Down the Power' - The Volume Drops but the Tone is Maintained. 'Power Scaling' Allows the Output Power of the Amplifier to be Varied from 100% down to Less than 1% of the Full Rating - Fully Maintaining the Warm Tone and Natural Harmonics of the Output Valve. Sustain is Increased slightly when the 'Power Scaling' is active and 'Pinch' Harmonics seem to leap from the Fretboard on just about any Guitar. Some of the 'Side' Benefits of 'Power Scaling' are - Waste Heat from the Output Stage is Dramatically reduced as the Power is Dialled down, Greatly Extending Valve Life - Because of the Extra Filtering used in the Circuit, Background Noise is Minimal - Power Consumption is also Reduced, this will extend the life of all the Components in the Amplifier.
At Bedroom Volume you can obtain the Full, Sweet Valve Harmonic Overdrive Sound that you have probably always been looking for.
- Power Scaling 'PS1' -or- 'PS2' Settings -
This Function allows you to Switch the 'Power Scaling' Circuits Between 'PS1' (Standard) Operation -or- 'PS2' (Brown Out) Operation.
1. - 'PS1'....This is the Standard Method of 'Power Scaling' in which only the Valve Output Circuits are Scaled. The Preamp Circuits are 'Held' at Normal Supply Voltage.
2. - 'PS2'.... This NEW Setting Totally Changes the Dynamics of the Amplifier as Both the Preamp and Power Amp Circuits are Scaled. The Resulting Effect is Known as 'Brown Out'. The most Well known user of 'Brown Out' was 'EVH'. He used a 'Variac' to Achieve the 'Brown' Sound, but the End result is the Same as 'PS2', without the Risk of any Damage to the Valves.
- Normal and High Gain Settings -
It's Like Having two Completely Different Amplifiers, at the Flip of a Switch.
The Amp is Built around 2x (12AX7/ECC83) Cascaded Preamp Valves.
In 'Normal' Mode, the Amp is almost Standard and uses just one (Dual Triode) Preamp Valve.
In 'High Gain' Mode, the Amp Uses an Additional Preamp Valve and turns into a Screaming BEAST.
- TRI Rectifier Switch -
There is a Switch on the Rear Panel of the Amp which Allows the Selection of 3 Different Rectifiers.
1. - Standard 'Silicon' Diodes.
2. - 5Y3WGTA 'Valve' - Running at Half Power.
3. - 5Y3WGTA 'Valve' - Running at Full Power.
All Amplifiers use a Rectifier to convert the Raw AC Voltage from the Mains Transformer into DC Voltage. The Amp Circuits Need DC Voltage to work. If, for example, you Hit a Power Chord on your Guitar, the Amplifier Circuitry Suddenly Demands a Large Dose of Power from the Mains Transformer. Silicon Diodes are Extremely Efficient and can convert the Raw AC into DC almost instantaneously, to Feed the Amplifiers Needs. Valve Rectifiers are a Different Story. Generally Speaking, they can't Cope with Sudden High Demands of Energy and they 'Starve' the Amp of Power until they can catch up with the Demand - This is Called 'SAG' - and it Sounds GREAT!
The typical sound Produced by an Amp using 'Silicon' Diodes would be -
- Attack - Sustain - Release - Decay -
Using the 'V1 Valve' Rectifier, the Sound would be Closer to -
- Attack - Swell - Extended Sustain - Release - Decay -
To your Ears -
In 'Silicon Mode' the Initial Note Attack is Sharp and Crisp - Like a Modern Amp.
In 'V1 -or- V2 Valve Mode' the Initial Attack is Almost Soft and Laid Back with Longer Sustain - Like a Vintage Amp.
It is OK to Switch Between Rectifiers While the Amp is Running.
- 2 Position Preamp Valve 'Bias' Switch -
The 'Bias' Switch allows you to Voice the Amp to your Particular Liking. There are 2 Settings to choose from.
In 'Normal Gain' Mode - - -
A. - Position '1' is 'Clean and Mellow'- The Preamp Valve is Biased to match the 'Champ' Amp Fender Sound. Medium Distortion, Standard 'Rock' Sound when Pushed.
B. - Position '2' introduces more Harmonics into the Sound - The Preamp Valve is Biased to a Modern Level - Early Distortion, Great 'Crunch' Sound. The Harder you drive it the Better it Gets.
In 'High Gain' Mode - - -
All Bets are OFF - The 'Bias' Switch simply changes the Level of Harmonics.
- Speaker Output Dummy Load -
A Valve Amp MUST have at least one Speaker connected to the Output or it will Rapidly Destroy the Output Transformer -or- Power Valve -or- Both. With a 'Dummy Load' the 'Line Out' Socket can be used with -or- without Speakers Connected. The 'Dummy Load' is Auto-Switching.
- Master Volume Control -
There are Definitely a couple of things Missing from this Amp as Standard - A Standby Switch, which I have Added to the Rear Panel -and- A 'Master' Volume Control .....Well it has a 'Master' Volume Control Now.
The Internal Preamp and Power Amp Circuits have been Configured so that you can obtain - Preamp Overdrive only -or- Power Amp Overdrive only -or- Both using the 'Volume' and 'Master' Controls.
- This Amplifier is -
- Pure Class 'A' - Single Ended - Cathode Bias -
'Class 'A' Amplifiers' - The Output Valve Runs at Almost Constant Power all of the Time, Resulting in More Responsiveness. At Lower Volume you will get Punchy, Clear Tone that makes the Strings of your Guitar 'Sing'. The Response is Quick and Lively. Turn it up, and you get Classic Crunch and Marvelous, Warm Harmonics - Simply NOT Obtainable on any Transistor Amp that I have ever Heard.
'Single Ended Amplifiers' - Sound 'Full', Providing Rich, Luscious Overall Tonal Colouration with enough Clarity to bring out the Subtlety of your Guitar and Playing. They are known for Natural Break-Up when Turned to Higher Volumes, Resulting in a Creamy Distortion that makes Transistor 'Gain' Sound Sterile and Flat.
'Cathode Bias Amplifiers' - Do NOT need to be 'Re-Biased' if the Output Valve is Changed.
The Amp is Also Very Sensitive to the Type/Output of Guitar Pickup used and Cleans-up Nicely when the Guitar Volume is Rolled Back. It is Extremely Articulate and Detailed. You can hear every Touch and Movement of your Fingers on the Strings of the Connected Guitar. The Amp is Much Louder when using 'Humbucker' Pickups.
The Circuitry is 100% VALVE. There are NO Transistors or Semiconductors in the Signal Path.
This Amp is Rated at just 7 Watts RMS Audio Output - You can Get that Fantastic Valve Sound without blowing your Head Off.
Due to Inherent 'Class A' - 'Single Ended' - 'Cascaded Preamp' Design Characteristics, these Amplifiers Have Limited Clean Headroom. There is a Certain Amount of Clean Headroom Available (Only in 'Normal' Gain Mode) but not at Higher Volumes.
WARNING: This Amp 'IS' A Gain Monster, if you want 'Metal' or 'Thrash' Tones then this is the Amp for you.
Scoop the Mid - Back off the Bass - Select 'V1' Valve Rectifier - Switch in the 'High Gain' and the Amp will Sustain all day Long.
- Details -
The Stock Amp has 8 Controls on the Front Panel - 'Input', 'Volume', 'Treble', 'Middle' and 'Bass', A 'Pilot Light', '3/5 Watt' and 'Mains On/Off' Switches.
The RAT 'Hot Rod' Amp is a Lot Different - 'Power Scale' and 'Master' Volume Controls Replace the Switches on the Front Panel. The '3/5 Watt' Switch has been Removed from the Amp as it is Not Required with 'Power Scaling'.
- 'Input' -
Obvious - But you do not have to plug your Guitar Straight to the Amp. This Amp LOVES Pedals.
- Also -
The 2 Position Preamp Valve 'Bias' Switch changes the 'Voice' of the Amp.
- Also -
The 2 position Valve 'Gain' Switch takes the Amp from 'Mild' -to- 'Wild'.
- 'Volume' - 'Tone Stack' - 'Master' -
1. - The 'Volume' Control - Sets How Hard the Preamp Valve is Driven.
2. - 'Treble', 'Middle' and 'Bass' Controls - Standard Configuration, we all know how these things work - I have Replaced the Stock Rotary Controls with Larger, Better Quality 24mm Alpha Parts and Totally 'Re-Built' and 'Hand Wired' the Tone Stack into the Amp Chassis - It can Completely Remove the 'Treble', 'Middle' or 'Bass' from the Signal (if required) - It Now Replicates a 'Fender Twin Reverb' in Operation.
3. - 'Master' Volume - Sets How Hard the Power Amp Valve is Driven.
- Power Scaling -
This is where the Magic Happens - 'Power Scale' - Allows the Output Power of the Amplifier to be Varied from 100% down to Less than 1% of the Full Rating - Fully Maintaining the Warm Tone and Natural Harmonics of the '5881WXT' Output Valve. It Works GREAT.
- The Rear Panel -
1. - '2 x Speaker Output Sockets' and 'Impedance Select' Switch - 4, 8 or 16 Ohms - This is a Lot better Layout than the Stock Amp - The Standard Amp Outputs are Confusing and you can Easily Connect a Speaker to the Wrong Socket. An Auto-Switching 'Dummy Load' operates on Both Speaker Outputs.
2. - 'Line Out' - For Direct Connection (DI) to a Mixing Desk, Recorder or Slave Amp. The 'Line Out' Signal is Speaker Emulated (Open Back Cab) and taken from the Output Transformer, it can be used with -or- without Speakers connected to the Amp.
3. - 'Headphone' Socket - Works with Standard Stereo Headphones - it can be used with -or- without Speakers connected to the Amp. The Headphone Signal is taken Direct from the OPT.
4. - 'TRI Rectifier' Switch - 'Silicon' -or- V1 'Valve' (Half Power) -or- V2 'Valve' (Full Power).
5. - 'Standby' Switch. This is a 3 Position Switch....
A. - The 'Centre' Position is 'Standby' (SB). The Valves need to 'Warm Up' Before they are 'Started'. When the 'Mains' Switch is turned 'On', this Switch should be at 'SB' for About 1 Minute.
B. - The 'Up' Position of this Switch Activates the Power Scaling 'PS1' (Standard) Circuits.
C. - The 'Down' Position Activates the Power Scaling 'PS2' (Brown Out) Circuits.
6. - The 'Mains' On/Off Switch - Main 240vac Supply - The 'Pilot Light' on the Front Panel Illuminates when this Switch is turned On.
This is the Hot-Rod List of what I have Done and What you will get for your £379-
1. - A Brand New 'RAT' Hot Rod Blackheart 'Little Giant' BH5H 'High Gain' Amplifier Head.
2. - 'Power Scaling' - This is the Business, Nothing else can touch it.
3. - Power Scale 'PS1' and 'PS2' Settings.
4. - Dual Mode 'Gain' Select - Switch Between 'Normal' Gain using one Preamp Valve -or- 'High' Gain using Dual Cascaded Preamp Valves.
5. - 'TRI' Rectifiers - Select the 'Silicon' -or- V1 'Valve' -or- V2 'Valve' Rectifier - You can Switch between Rectifiers with the Amp Running.
6. - 2 Position Preamp 'Bias' Switch - Sets the 'Voice' of the Amp.
7. - 'Line Out' Socket - Speaker Emulated (Open Back Cab) - The 'Line Out' Signal is taken from the Output Transformer.
8. - 'Headphone' Socket - The Headphone Signal is Speaker Emulated (Open Back Cab) and is taken from the OPT.
9. - 'Orange Drop' Tone Capacitors - One of the Best types of Capacitors for Valve Amps.
10. - Auto-Switching 'Dummy Load' on both Speaker Outputs. Protects the Amp from Destruction caused by NO Speakers Connected -Also- Allows the 'Line Out' and/or 'Headphone' Sockets to be used with -or- without Speakers.
11. - All New Valves - JJ 'ECC83S' 1st Preamp Valve - Sino '12AX7B' 2nd Preamp Valve - Edicron (Sovtek) '5881WXT' Power Output Valve - NOS JAN '5Y3WGTA' Rectifier.
12. - New Front and Rear Panel Layout.
13. - The 'BUZZ' - Although the Amp already has DC Valve Heaters, they need a bit of Attention. Not a Problem - the Heater 'BUZZ' is Gone.
14. - The 'HUM' - This is a Bit more Serious and Requires a lot of work in order to Remove the Unacceptable Level (In my View) of HUM. I had to Remove all of the Rotary Controls from the PCB. The Controls were Replaced with Bigger, Better Quality 24mm Alpha Parts and then 'Hand Wired' back into the Amp Chassis. While I was doing this I Reconfigured the Tone Stack to Replicate a Fender Twin Reverb - Sorted - Minimum 'HUM'.
15. - All of the Jack Sockets are 'Suspect' Quality, So I have replaced them with High Quality Items.
16. - All Front and Rear Panel Controls and Sockets are Now 'Hand Wired' into the Amp.
17. - 'Volume' Control - Sets the Gain on the Preamp Valve/Valves.
18. - 'Master' Control - Sets the Gain on the 5881 Output Valve and also Allows - Preamp Overdrive -or- Power Amp Overdrive -or- Both.
19. - 'Standby' Switch - Located on the Rear Panel next to the 'Mains On/Off' Switch. This Switch also Activates the 'PS1' and 'PS2' Circuits.
20. - 2 x Speaker Outputs and Impedance Select Switch - Protected by an Auto-Switching 'Dummy Load'.
21. - The 'Chicken Head' Control Knobs have Been replaced with High Quality, Larger Knobs.
22. - 2x Top Quality Ceramic Chassis Mount 'Octal' Valve Bases fitted, to Hold the New '5881WXT' -and- '5Y3WGTA' Valves.
23. - Full 'RAT' User Manual Detailing all of the Amplifier Controls and Modifications.
24. - There are Several 'Other' Modifications that I do to All of my Amps that are Exclusive to me and both Enhance Performance and Help to Keep the Noise Levels Way Down.
There is some 'Hiss' in 'High Gain' Mode as with all High Gain Amps - But - the 'Hiss' is Minimal and not Nearly as Much as you might expect from a 'High Gain' Amp.
This Amp has Been HIGHLY Modified and it Sounds - VERY - Different to a Standard Unit.
The Size is 38w x 25h x 23d cm - Weight: 12kg.
- Speakers ? -
A Personal Option, but for me, the BEST is a Celestion G12 'Vintage 30'. This thing ROCKS! and it makes the Amp Sound like 30+ Watts.
And Finally
A few words about 'Power Scaling' - The Primary Purpose of 'Power Scaling' is to give you access to the Sound of 'Output Valve Distortion' at Reduced Volume Levels. If it is Clean Headroom you are looking for - Forget about 'Power Scaling', you do not need it. 'Power Scaling' will do Little or Nothing until the Selected Output Valve is being Driven Hard and Producing 'Harmonic Distortion' - Then, it Rules!!
These Amplifiers have recently had a Manufacturers Price increase of about 25% - Unfortunately, I have to add this to my Costs.
The End Price of this Amplifier Directly Reflects the Amount of work Required to Modify it. I do NOT just clip out 2 or 3 Components and Replace them. To Modify this Amp a COMPLETE Strip-Down and Re-Build is Required. I use only the Best Components Available and the End Result is a Hand Built All Valve Amp that is the Business.
This is a Boutique Amplifier and you WILL be Delighted with it's Performance - If not, I will give you your Money Back.
I make a Selection of Valve Amplifiers with Different Specifications -
Please check out my other listings to see the Entire Range.
http://search.ebay.co.uk/_W0QQsassZandydokken
If in the unlikely event your Amp stops working - I will put it right for you. My work and all Internal Parts (excluding the 4 Valves) will be Guaranteed for 12 Months.
I will send this Amp to Europe but you will need to Contact me for a Shipping Quote -
andyrossaaron@aol.com
or
www.ratvalveamps.com
A Brand New 'RAT' Blackheart BH5H Amplifier Head (Speakers are NOT Included) will be sent By 24/48 Hour Carrier, as soon as Payment Reaches my Pocket.
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