Contents
INTRODUCTION.
Various definitions of fashion—The grave side of its history—Quotations from the poets—Character of Frenchwomen—The refinement of their tastes and fancies— Paris the temple of fashion—The provinces—Mdlle. Mars' yellow gown—The causes of fashion—A saying of Mme. de Girardin's—A remark of Mrs. Trollope's— The dress of actresses—Earliest theories of fashion—The Gynaeceum of Amman— First appearance of the "Journal des Dames et des Modes"—Lamesangere— Other publications—An anecdote concerning dolls—Plan of the History of Fashion in France ............
CHAPTER I.
THE GALLIC AND GALLO-ROMAN PERIOD.
Gallic period—Woad, or the pastel—Tunics and boulgetes—"Mavors" and "Palla" —Cleanliness of the Gallic women -The froth of beer or "kourou"—The women of Marseilles ; their marriage-portions — Gallo-Roman period — The Roman garment—The ''stola "—Refinement of elegance—Extravagant luxury of women— Artificial aids—A " vestiaire" or wardrobe-room of the period—Shoes—Jewels and ornaments—The amber and crystal ball—Influence of the barbarians
CHAPTER II.
THE MEROVINGIAN PERIOD.
Modifications in female dress after the Invasion of the Franks—Customs of the latter— The Merovingians—Costumes of skins and felt; cloaks and camlets—The coif, the veil, the skull-cap, the " guimpe," the cape—Fashionable Merovingian ladies adorn themselves with flowers—Various articles of dress—The "suint"—Young girls dress their hair without ornaments—St. Radegonde—The hair of married women .
CHAPTER III.
THE CARLOVINGIAN PERIOD.
Reign of Charlemagne—The women of the tenth century wear two tunics—Judith's belt—A veil is obligatory—Miniatures in the Mazarin Library— Charles the Bald's Bible—Shoes—Dress of Queen Lutgarde—Dress of Rotrude and Bertha—Gisla and other kinswomen of the Emperor—The successors of Charlemagne—Cannes— Adelaide of Vermandois—The dress of widows . ...
CHAPTER IV.
THE CARLOVINGIAN PERIOD.
Earliest times of the Carlovingian period—Variety of costume in the provinces— Fashions in the Duchy of France—French taste dating from the eleventh century —Luxury increases with each generation—The dominical—The "bliaud "—Canes of apple-wood—Women in the twelfth century—Head-dresses—"Afiche"— Serpent-tails—Pelisses—The thirteenth century—"Greves" and veils are in fashion—The " couvre-chef" in the fourteenth century—The skirt, or " cotte-hardie," surcoat, or overall, or overskirt, cape, trained skirt, and " gauzape"— Accessories—Emblazoned gowns—Various kinds of stuffs . . . . 3'
CHAPTER V.
THE INFLUENCE OF THE CRUSADES.
Severity of feminine costume—Long gowns and guimpes—Marguerite of Provence— "Fermaux"—Reappearance of splendour in dress—Eastern customs—The priests of fashion—Haberdashery and peacock-feathers—Female embroiderers—Taste for embroidery—Continual temptations—Earliest sumptuary laws—Furs—St. Louis's opinion on dress —Prohibitions by Philippe le Bel; speech made by his wife— Crepine .............. 39
CHAPTER VI.
REIGNS OF JOHN AND OF CHARLES V.
The States of Languedoc—A young French lady in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries—Low dresses—Saying of a mercer—Damoiselles—Garnaches and garde -corps—Le Parement des dames—Social distinctions—High character is worth more than gilded belt—Precious stones—The castles and other dwellings of the Middle Ages—Splendid furniture—Humble abodes of the poor—Evening assemblies . 45
CHAPTER VII.
REIGNS OF CHARLES VI. AND CHARLES VII.
Taste in dress becomes purer—Heart-shaped head-coverings, the "cornette," and the "hennin " in the reign of Charles VI.—Husbands complain—Preachers denounce —Thomas Connecte declaims against the diabolic invention—Brother Richard tries to reform it—The "hennin" gains the victory—Costume of Jeanne de Bourbon—"Escoffion"—An absurd figure—Gravouere — Isabeau de Baviere— Gorgiasetes—Tripes—Splendour of the court—Agnes Sorel—"Coiffe adournee ;" diamonds; the carcan—Walking-sticks . . . . . . . -SI
CHAPTER VIII.
REIGNS OF LOUIS XI., CHARLES VIII., AND LOUIS XII.
Duchesses and bourgeoises under Louis XI.—"La grand'gorre," or sumptuosity— The "troussoire"—Allegorical and moral costumes—Trains—Head-dresses— "Collets rebrasses"—Wigs and false hair—Some results of the war in Italy— Italian fashions—" Sollerets " and slippers—Gorgets—Garters—JeanMarot writes against novelties—Anne of Brittany—Pins—Menot " the golden-tongued "—A Parisian in the time of Louis XIL—Coat a 1'Italienne—Manufacture of stuffs . 61
CHAPTER IX.
REIGN OF FRANCIS I.
The court of Francis I.—A speech of Charles V.—The king's liberality—Order of the Cordeliere—Word-paintings of the fashions of the day, by Rabelais—Costumes of the seasons—Feather-fans—Sunshades—The "hoche-plis" or vertugadin—Mme. de Tressan saves her cousin's life—Satires and songs—Mdlle. de Lacepede— " Contenances "—Silk shoes with slashes—Head-dress called a "passe-filon' — Increase of love of dress—The bean-flower—Artistic head-dresses—Twists of hair called ratraprenades—Ferronieres—Coaches in Paris ; their influence on the fashions . . > .......... 7*
CHAPTER X.
REIGN OF HENRI II.
Fashions under Henri II.—The ruff—A satirical print of the time—Catherine de Medicis eats soup—The Italian taste—Regulations for dress—Crimson—Who shall wear silk?—Lines on velvet, by Ronsard—Rotonde—"Collet monte"— Spring-water—Style of gowns and head-dresses—Wired sleeves—Girdles - Caps, bonnets, and hoods—The "touret de nez"—The "coffin a roupies"—Shoes— A quotation from Rabelais . .......... 81
CHAPTER XI.
REIGN OF FRANCIS II.
The earliest queens of fashion—Mary Stuart's costumes ; her jewels—Description of bodices and sleeves of that period—Crosses—The "loup" or small mask— Coiffure "en raquette"—An anecdote concerning high heels—Regulations respecting fashion—Remark of a lady of our own day on distinctions in dress— Exordium of the Edict of July 12, 1549—Maximum of marriage portions—The first knitted silk stockings ......... . . 89
CHAPTER XII.
REIGN OF CHARLES IX.
The wars of religion—The fashions of Italy are brought across the Alps, and are welcomed in France—Effects of the expeditions into Italy—Articles from Venice and Genoa are very fashionable—A cloud of sugar-plums, and a shower of scents— Effeminate style of dress—Charles IX. and his Edicts against extravagant display —Fashion rebels against sumptuary laws—Women of high rank, bourgeoises, widows, and spinsters—Wedding dresses—Observations of a Venetian ambassador —" Corps pique"—Drawers—Paint—Cosmetics—Breast mirrors, girdle mirrors— Court dresses—" Arcelets "........... 95
CHAPTER XIII.
REIGN OF HENRI III.
Opposition to the laws of King Henri III. on dress—The wife of President N——. —How both sexes evaded the edicts—Gowns from Milan—Mixture of masculine and feminine fashions—Rage for perfumes—Recognition of rank is demanded— Costumes worn at Cognac by Marguerite de Valois in presence of the Polish ambassadors, and her costume at Blois—Brantome's opinion—Pointed bodices, puffed-out sleeves, and "bourrelets"—Remarks on hair—Ridiculous dress of men—Poucet, the preacher—Satirical lines on Joyeuse—Witty remark of Pierre de 1'Estoile—Starch used by Henri III.—Cushions ...... 103
CHAPTER XIV.
REIGNS OF HENRI IV. AND LOUIS XIII.
Universal mourning on the death of the Guises ; intolerance of showy dress— Vertugadins, "espoitrement," "corps espagnole"—Diversity of colours—The pearls, jewels, and diamonds belonging to Gabrielle d'Estrees and to the queen— Dress of Marguerite de France—Low-cut bodices—Head-dresses of hair—Various styles—Venetian slippers—Edicts of Louis XII.—Caricatures : " Pompe funebre de la Mode "—Words and fashions—Ribbons or " galants "—Dress of widows— "Demi-ceint" girdles—Gloves of all sorts—Patches—Masks; their use—" Caclie-laid"—The Frondeuses—Mme. de Longueville . . . . . . . 113
CHAPTER XV.
REIGN OF LOUIS XIV.
Louis XIV. commands—Court luxury and pleasure; disguises—The Temple jewellery —Fashion and etiquette—Successive fashions—Royal edicts—The " Tombeau du sens commun"—Dress of La Valliere—Of Mme. de Montespan—Costume of a lady of rank in 1668—The "echelles de Mme. de la Reynie"—"Transparencies" —Manufactures—Champagne, the hair-dresser—Female hair-dressers—" Hurlu-berlus" and Mme. de Sevigne—Moustaches for women; patches—Palatines— Slippers ; high heels—Corsetb; fans ; sweet lemons—Dog-muffs—Hair dressed "a la Fontanges"—English style of dressing hair—"Esther"—Steinkerks— "Crcmonas"—" Amadis" and Jansenist sleeves — Hair dressed "a reffrontee"— Dresses of the Duchesse de Bourgogne—Mignardises ...... 125
CHAPTER XVI.
REIGN OF LOUIS XIV. (CONTINUED).
Painted faces—Reply of a Turkish ambassador— Ineffectual criticism—Mme. Turcaret's "pretintailles "—Mme. Bonnet's law-suit—Brocaded materials—"Andriennes"— "Criardes" — Return of "hoops" and paniers — A sailor's leap — Actresses' paniers, and the Greek head-dress—Mme. de Letorieres—D'Hele arrives frozen at the Cafe Procope—Waterproofs—Finishing touches—Fans and fan-makers in the seventeenth century—What Mme. de Stael-Holstein thought of fans—Transition 143
CHAPTER XVII.
REIGN OF LOUIS XV.
The Regency—War is declared against paniers—The Oratorian Duguet—Opinion of the "Journal de Verdun"—Various publications against paniers—Lines by Voltaire—Whale-fishery company—Paragraph from the "Journal de Barbier"— Mmes. Jaucourt, De Seine, Delisle, Clairon, and Hus—Lines in praise of corsets— New bodices—Coloured prints are forbidden—"Perses" or "Persiennes"— Bagnolette—Adjuncts of dress : necklaces, ridicules, and poupottes—Contents of a patch-box—A sermon by Massillon—" Les mouches de Massillon," or Massillon's patches—"Filles de Mode, " or Fashion-girls—Some passing fashions—Powder remains in fashion—" Monte-au-ciel "—Simply made gowns —The first cachemire 151
CHAPTER XVIII.
REIGN OF LOUIS XVI.
The influence of Marie Antoinette on fashion—Letter from Maria Theresa—Leonard and Mdlle. Bertin—Various styles of head-dresses—"Pouf"—The "Journal de Paris"—Reign of Louis XVI.—Male and female hair-dressers—Plumes—Hair worn low—The queen's " puce "-coloured gown ; shades of colour in dresses— Oberkampf and the Jouy prints—Expensive satins—Trimmings, their great number and importance—Gauze, blond, tulle, and ribbons—Some kinds of shoes—Venez-y.voir_The " Archduchess " ribbons—A dress worn at the opera . . . 161
CHAPTER XIX.
REIGN OF LOUIS XVI. (CONTINUED).
Peasant dress is universal—Fashion "a la Marlborough"—Caps—Bonnets—Mdlles. Fredinand Quentin—Ruches—Low bodices ; "postiches"—Costume of Contat-Suzanne—Fashions " a la Figaro "—Literature and politics signified in dress; the Princess de Monaco's pouf—Pouf " a la circonstance ;" the " inoculation " pouf— The " innocence made manifest" caraco—The "harpy " costume—Coats, cravats, and waistcoats—Sailor jackets and " pierrots "—Deshabilles; " the lying fichu "— Etiquette in dress—Seasonable costumes—The queen's card-table—State of trade in Paris, circa 1787—" Pinceauteuses," or female colourers ..... 171
CHAPTER XX.
THE FRENCH REPUBLIC.
The year 1789—Masculine style of dress—The double dress vanishes—Caps " a la grande pretresse," " a la pierrot," and "alalaitiere—The " pouf " bonnet - Paint and powder disappear—Prediction by the Cabinet des Modes—Anonymous caps— Cap "a la Charlotte Corday"—Trinkets "a la Bastille"—Mme. de Genlis' locket—Cap " a la Bastille"—Federal uniforms—Claims to equality in dress — Reaction under the Directory—" Incroyables " and " merveilleuses "—Coiffures " a la victime" and " a la Titus"—Blond wigs and black wigs—The Hotel Thelusson—Which is the most ridiculous?—Mme. Tallien's costume—Epigram on bonnets "a la folle "—Reticules—Transparent dresses-Lines by Despreaux. 179
CHAPTER XXI.
REJGN OF NAPOLEON I.
Fashions under the Empire— Sacks — "Personnes cossues" — A saying of Napoleon's — White gowns — Valenciennes lace — Ball dresses ; walking dresses — Polish "toquets" and bonnets — Turbans — Muslins — Artificial flowers — Wenzel's manufactory; ''The Offspring of Imposture," Campenon's verses — Parisian ladies, as sketched by Horace Vernet— Stays — Cashmeres — Protest by Piis — Ternaux assists in establishing the manufacture of cashmere shawls in France — Cotton stuffs — Richard Lenoir ; importance of the Rouen manufacture — Violets during the Hundred Days — The "eighteen folds," and white silk ..... 191
CHAPTER XXII.
REIGNS OF LOUIS XVIII. AND CHARLES X.
Importation of foreign fashions in 1815—White dresses, white feathers, and fleurs de lys—Emigrant ladies—Russian toques—Male and female dressmakers— Ruchings—Short sleeves and long gloves—Herbault's honnets—" Chefs "—Anglomania in 1815—Green gauze veils i spencers—The "canezou"—Lacroix, the stay-maker—Dr. Pelletan and Charles X.—Wasps—The " Ourika " fashions— The famous leg-of-mutton sleeves—Fashions "a 1'Ipsiboe," "au Trocadero," and '• a la Dame Blanche "—Blonde caps and turbans—Head-dresses—Fashions, " a la giraffe ;" " the last sigh of Jocko"—Female book-keepers ; shopwomen — The Cafe des Mille-Colonnes .......... joy
CHAPTER XXIII.
REIGN OF LOUIS PHILIPPE.
The Revolution of July, 1830—Fashions in Louis Philippe's reign—Microscopical bonnets, called "bibis," "cabriolets"—Variety of caps—Fashions of the Middle Ages and of the Renaissance—The stage—Historic costumes—Influence of Rachel, the actress—Greek and Roman fashions—Colours—Various designations of materials—Bedouin sleeves—Bonnets and head-dresses—Pamela bonnets— Novel eccentricities—Taglioni gowns, gathered "a la Vierge," laced "a la Niobe," &c.—The " Sylvestrine "—Costumes to be worn on occasions of attempts on the king's life—Bouquets for balls ......... 205
CHAPTER XXIV.
THE SECOND REPUBLIC.
Tricoloured stuffs of 1848—Girondin mantles—Open gowns—Summer dresses—Kasa-wecks and their derivatives—Beaver bonnets ; velvet bonnets, and satin or crape drawn bonnets—Cloches, Cornelie, Moldavian, and Josephine cloaks; mantles— Isly green—Opera cloaks—Numerous styles of dressing the hair ; a la Marie Stuart, a la Valois, Leda, Proserpine, and Ceres—Marquise parasols—Jewellery— Straw bonnets—" Orleans" and "armure"—Work reticule or bag—" Chines"— Pagoda sleeves—Waistcoats ; brsque bodices—New and economical canezous . 213
CHAPTER XXV.
REIGN OF NAPOLEON III.
Ready-made mantles—Talmas, mousquetaires, and rotondes—The Second Empire; reminiscences of the reign of Napoleon I.—Marriage of Napoleon III.; dress of the new Empress ; her hair dressed by Felix Escalier; court mantle and train— Four kinds of dress—Opera dress in 1853-4—Bodices "a la Vierge," Pompadour bodices, and Watteau bodices—Skirt trimmings—A new colour, "The'ba"— Light tints—Social and theatrical celebrities—The Eugenie head-dress and Mainnier bands—End of the first period of Imperial fashions .... 221
CHAPTER XXVI.
REIGN OF NAPOLEON III. (CONTINUED).
Crinoline inaugurates the second era of Imperial fashions—The reign of crinoline— Starched petticoats — Whaleboned petticoats — Steel hoops — Two camps are formed, one in favour of, and one inimical to crinoline—Large collars—Marie Antoinette fichus and mantles—Exhibition of 1855—Cashmere shawls—Pure cashmeres — Indian cashmere shawls — Indian woollen shawls — "Mouzaia" shawls—Algerian burnouses—Pompadour parasols—Straight parasols—School for - fans—The fan drill—The Queen of Oude's fans—The Charlotte Corday fichu . 227
CHAPTER XXVII.
REIGN OF NAPOLEON III. (CONTINUED).
Sea-bathing and watering-places—Special costumes—Travelling-bags—Hoods and woollen shawls—Convenient style of dress—Kid and satin boots; high heels— Introduction of the " several" and the " Ristori"—Expensive pocket-handkerchiefs —Waists are worn shorter— Zouave, Turkish, and Greek jackets—Bonnet fronts — Gold trimmings universally used—Tarlatane, tulle, and lace .... 233
CHAPTER XXVIII.
REIGN OF NAPOLEON III. (CONTINUED).
Fashions in 1860 and 1861—Jewellery—Shape of "Russian" bonnets—Nomenclature of girdles—Different styles of dressing the hair—The " Ceres " wreath— Flowers and leaves for the hair—Prohibition of green materials—Anecdotes from the Union Medicale and the Journal de la Nievre—Cloth and silk mantles—Braid and astrakan—Four types of bonnet—Morning bonnet—Artificial flowers . . 237
CHAPTER XXIX.
REIGN OF NAPOLEON III. (CONTINUED).
Sunshades, en-tout-cas, metis, in 1862—Sailors' jackets, jerseys, and pilot-jackets— Princess or demi-princess gowns; Swiss bodices; corset or postillion belts—Lydia and Lalla Rookh jackets; Vespertina opera cloaks—" Lungchamps is no more "— Bois de Boulogne—Russian or Garibaldi bodices—Paletot vest—Empress belt— 1885 patents for inventions regarding dress are taken out in 1864—Victoria skeleton skirts, Indian stays, train-supporters—" Titian "-coloured hair—The Peplum in 1866—Epicyeloide steels ; aquarium earrings—Description of a court ball-dress—The fashions of Louis XV., Louis XVI., and the Empire are revived —Sedan chairs—Handkerchiefs at all prices ....... 241
CHAPTER XXX.
REIGN OF NAPOLEON III. (END).
Five different styles of dressing the hair in 1868 and 1869—Petit catogan; three triple bandeaus—The hair is worn loose—Dress of the Duchess de Mouchy—Refinements of fashion—Various journals—New shades—Crinoline is attacked ; it resists ; it succumbs—Chinese fashions ...... 247
CHAPTER XXXI.
THE THIRD REPUBLIC.
The years 1870 and 1871—The siege of Paris—General mourning—Simplicity and economy—Parisian velvet and pekin—A concert costume—A cloth costume— Alsatian bows and costumes—Soirees at" the Presidency — Marie Stuart and Michael Angelo bonnets—" Hunting stockings "—Rabagas hats—The years 1872 and 1873—Fan parasols—"Leopold Robert" bonnets—The year 1873—Return of luxury—"Regent" belts and "sovereign" dress-improvers—Silks—"Moderate " costumes—The burning of the Opera House—Sale on behalf of those made orphans by the war—The ball for the Lyons weavers—Cashmere tunics—Dislike to gloves—Petticoats—Charles IX. shoes—Slippers—The year 1874—"Page" bonnets and " Margot " hats—Hair in the Swiss style; false hair—The ball given by the Chamber of Commerce—Green—Jet—Various costumes—Hair-dressing— " Mercury" bonnets ........ . 351
CHAPTER XXXII.
FASHIONS OF THE PRESENT DAY.
Dinner, casino, and ball dresses in 1875—Importation of false hair—Manufacture in France—Modification of waterproofs—" Estelle" bonnets—Tunic-aprons—Cuirass-bodices—"Montespan " sleeves—" Sant-du-lit "—Shoes of past times—" Bonne-femme" pockets—Henri III. plumes—" Inez" veils—Ribbons and flowers— Heavy style of dress—" Pouf " petticoats—Composite fashions of 1876—Armenian
CHAPTER XXXII.
FASHIONS OF THE PRESENT DAY.(CONTINUED). 1878 TO 1881.
The International Exhibition of 1878—Foreign countries—Japanese fans—The little lace-makers of Peniche—Retrospective Exhibition of costume in France—" Considerations sur le vetement des femmes," by M. Charles Blanc—Historical Exhibition at the Trocadero— Comprehensive glance at the curiosities of that Exhibition—" The movement " in 1879 — " Merveilleuse," "Niniche," and other bonnets—Hush—Gown-stuff at 100 francs the yard—Scarfs, casaques, and various bodices—Madras costumes—Under-clothing; chemise-corsets, morning-gowns—"Housewife" fans ; fan-holders—Trinkets—New materials— Visiles; jackets; bows; neckties—The year 1880—"Cabriolet" bonnets; "passe-montagnes "—The pilgrim costume—Satins—Favourite colours—Vests—Art buttons— Bulgarian costumes—Jerseys—Scented gloves—Flowers in profusion ; a bridal bouquet —Midshipman bonnets—Nordenskiold—Dust-cloaks—Revolution in bonnets—Art and fashion—" Porte-veines."
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